Short staple cotton is 3/4 of an inch long. Long staple is for
The dyeing process goes has remained the same for the last 500 years at the Kofar Mata dye pits.
The dyeing goes through capillary action to saturate the fabric.
The cotton is combed and spun into yarn- a role traditionally performed by women. The yarn is woven on looms of 15-30 cm with an endless roll.
In Kano, indigo is the staple dye as it is a natural dye available across parts of Kano. This is similar to the bologan and in Mali which uses shades of brown, terracotta and black which are easily accessible in the sub-saharan country.
African textiles play a key role in everyday life - with the use of fabric to denote tribes, ethnic groups, status, class and occasion.
The mudukare is the striped with woven pockets of colour, the ilajo is the same with a plain backdrop. The saki which has gained increasing patronage in the last 5 year is a dark blue fabric with lighter hues of stripes running horizontally along the fabric.
Traditionally, the weave is intentionally loose to provide air pockets to make it easier to sweat into and more breathable. The loose textured weave also allows for quicker absorption of the dye. Which increases the the textiles colour durability.
We had the opportunity to visit the dye pits and also see the craftwork of the artisans at Kurmi market and have created a batch run of Fulani inspired accessories showing the versatility of this 600 year old fabric and to pay homage to the Fulani/Hausa tribe, the craftsmen and the cultural preservators.
Traditionally, these fabrics were used for hunter tunics, wrap around skirts and sacks.
Traditional fabrics such as the saki are no stranger to the runway with Chris Seydou using the mudcloth- the Mali bologan - on the Paris runway debut in 1979, mainstreaming the fabric whilst also showing the multifaced usability in the modern world.
Making traditional fabrics more mainstream has been an ongoing journey.
It is estimated some of the dyes and fabrics used date as far back as the 12th century.